Found with equipment rather than guesswork, and repaired properly. On streets built in the same few years, one pinhole is worth understanding rather than just patching.
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A pinhole is a small perforation that seeps rather than bursts. It is undramatic, it is usually found by the damage it has already done, and on its own it is simply a repair.
What makes it worth a second thought here is the housing. The orchards were subdivided from the late 1940s and street after street went up inside a few years, so the original copper in a great many of these houses is a similar age and was installed to the same standards by similar hands.
A pinhole is an end-of-life failure mode rather than an accident. Nothing was hit, nothing was overloaded; the material reached the point where it could no longer hold, in the weakest available spot.
So one is a repair and worth treating as one. Two, in different places, inside a year or so, is the installation telling you something, and the sensible response is to find out what condition the rest of it is in rather than to keep patching and hoping.


Under the sink, behind the toilet, or the main at the meter. Every minute the water is off is damage that does not happen.
Everything off, nothing refilling, read it, wait an hour, read it again.
Movement means water is leaving your system, and no amount of looking at walls beats it.
If the meter stops moving, the loss is on the hot side.
That halves the search before anybody has been paid to look for it.
They fail wide open, at mains pressure, in a cupboard nobody opens.
Cheap to replace, and the most damaging thing that routinely happens in a house.
The houses here went up across a few years from the late 1940s, so the original material is a similar age across whole streets.
Pinhole failures are an end-of-life pattern rather than bad luck.
One is a repair. Two in different places is the installation reporting its condition.
That is the point to look rather than to patch a third time.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Narrowed down with acoustic and thermal gear instead of by opening things.
One figure to stop it, whatever hour it happens.
Depending on where it is and what has to be reached to get to it.
The cheapest worthwhile job on this page, by a wide margin.
What was found and what caused it, which is what an insurer actually wants.

Whether anything else has leaked recently. One pinhole and three are different problems with different answers.

Everything off, read, wait, read again. A number rather than an opinion.

Isolating sections, then acoustic and thermal equipment on whichever side is losing.

Not just the repair. What was found, and our honest view of why, on paper.
A licensed plumber answers. The first thing you will get is how to shut it off yourself, because that is the part that limits the damage.
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What Carlingford locals ask us before booking a plumber.
Ask us yours
The meter. Turn every tap off, make sure nothing is refilling, read it, wait an hour and read it again. Movement means water is leaving the system. It costs nothing and it converts a suspicion into a fact.
Yes, and it is worth doing. Repeat the meter test with the hot water system isolated. If the meter stops moving, the loss is on the hot side, and you have halved the search for free.
A failed flexible hose under a sink or basin. They go without warning, wide open, at mains pressure, in a cupboard nobody looks in. If you cannot remember replacing yours, they are old enough to replace.
Rarely. Acoustic and thermal equipment narrows a leak to a small area, and isolating sections tells us which part of the property is losing. Opening on a guess is the expensive method and it is not how we work.
It is worth treating as one. Pinhole failures in older copper are an end-of-life mode rather than an accident, and in a suburb where whole streets were built in the same few years the material is a similar age everywhere. Two in different places is a different conversation from one.
Isolate it. The tap under the sink, the valve behind the toilet, or the main at the meter. Stopping the water is what limits the damage and it is nearly always something you can do.
Detection runs $250 to $550. Making a burst safe is $250 to $500. Repairing it once located falls between $350 and $900 depending on what has to be reached. Swapping flexible hoses is $150 to $300 and it is the best value on the list.
Tell us whether the meter moves with everything off, and whether anything else has leaked lately. Those two answers do most of the work before we arrive.
Located with equipment, repaired properly, and the cause written down.
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